This video is about re-sharpening a Haltfors carbon (convexed) that has too much damage for a strop to re-sharpen. Using a waterstone not a mouse mat or belt sander.... This knife cost me £3.95 and is a excellent knife to practice on..... convexing a scandi knife takes longer because of the amount of steel that needs to be removed. But if you can steepen the sides while still retaining a shallow convex then what you lose to the Scandi on steepness (flat) of the sides of the bevel you gain with its thinner gentle graduation of the bevel. My favourite carving wood at the moment is spalted Beech which can be almost Oak like in its hardness..... but as yet i have never had edge roll or any type of catastrophic edge failure. To me this is proof that the convex edge is the best knife grind for hardwoods. However the Scandi is very easy to strop sharpen and stone sharpen..... The convex however is a little harder to strop sharpen but a lot harder to stone sharpen... At one end of the scale, is the knife convex, at the other is the axe convex, and all that is in between..... so if you have the tenacity to master the art of "convex sharpening" then you can literally choose the amount of convex to suit a particular tool for a particular job.
Tuesday, January 15, 2013
HARDWOOD CONVEX " freehand re-sharpen existing "damaged convex edge"
HARDWOOD CONVEX " freehand re-sharpen existing "damaged convex edge" Tube. Duration : 25.60 Mins.
This video is about re-sharpening a Haltfors carbon (convexed) that has too much damage for a strop to re-sharpen. Using a waterstone not a mouse mat or belt sander.... This knife cost me £3.95 and is a excellent knife to practice on..... convexing a scandi knife takes longer because of the amount of steel that needs to be removed. But if you can steepen the sides while still retaining a shallow convex then what you lose to the Scandi on steepness (flat) of the sides of the bevel you gain with its thinner gentle graduation of the bevel. My favourite carving wood at the moment is spalted Beech which can be almost Oak like in its hardness..... but as yet i have never had edge roll or any type of catastrophic edge failure. To me this is proof that the convex edge is the best knife grind for hardwoods. However the Scandi is very easy to strop sharpen and stone sharpen..... The convex however is a little harder to strop sharpen but a lot harder to stone sharpen... At one end of the scale, is the knife convex, at the other is the axe convex, and all that is in between..... so if you have the tenacity to master the art of "convex sharpening" then you can literally choose the amount of convex to suit a particular tool for a particular job.
This video is about re-sharpening a Haltfors carbon (convexed) that has too much damage for a strop to re-sharpen. Using a waterstone not a mouse mat or belt sander.... This knife cost me £3.95 and is a excellent knife to practice on..... convexing a scandi knife takes longer because of the amount of steel that needs to be removed. But if you can steepen the sides while still retaining a shallow convex then what you lose to the Scandi on steepness (flat) of the sides of the bevel you gain with its thinner gentle graduation of the bevel. My favourite carving wood at the moment is spalted Beech which can be almost Oak like in its hardness..... but as yet i have never had edge roll or any type of catastrophic edge failure. To me this is proof that the convex edge is the best knife grind for hardwoods. However the Scandi is very easy to strop sharpen and stone sharpen..... The convex however is a little harder to strop sharpen but a lot harder to stone sharpen... At one end of the scale, is the knife convex, at the other is the axe convex, and all that is in between..... so if you have the tenacity to master the art of "convex sharpening" then you can literally choose the amount of convex to suit a particular tool for a particular job.
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