This video is about re-sharpening a Haltfors carbon (convexed) that has too much damage for a strop to re-sharpen. Using a waterstone not a mouse mat or belt sander.... This knife cost me £3.95 and is a excellent knife to practice on..... convexing a scandi knife takes longer because of the amount of steel that needs to be removed. But if you can steepen the sides while still retaining a shallow convex then what you lose to the Scandi on steepness (flat) of the sides of the bevel you gain with its thinner gentle graduation of the bevel. My favourite carving wood at the moment is spalted Beech which can be almost Oak like in its hardness..... but as yet i have never had edge roll or any type of catastrophic edge failure. To me this is proof that the convex edge is the best knife grind for hardwoods. However the Scandi is very easy to strop sharpen and stone sharpen..... The convex however is a little harder to strop sharpen but a lot harder to stone sharpen... At one end of the scale, is the knife convex, at the other is the axe convex, and all that is in between..... so if you have the tenacity to master the art of "convex sharpening" then you can literally choose the amount of convex to suit a particular tool for a particular job.
Showing posts with label Damaged. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Damaged. Show all posts
Tuesday, January 15, 2013
HARDWOOD CONVEX " freehand re-sharpen existing "damaged convex edge"
HARDWOOD CONVEX " freehand re-sharpen existing "damaged convex edge" Tube. Duration : 25.60 Mins.
This video is about re-sharpening a Haltfors carbon (convexed) that has too much damage for a strop to re-sharpen. Using a waterstone not a mouse mat or belt sander.... This knife cost me £3.95 and is a excellent knife to practice on..... convexing a scandi knife takes longer because of the amount of steel that needs to be removed. But if you can steepen the sides while still retaining a shallow convex then what you lose to the Scandi on steepness (flat) of the sides of the bevel you gain with its thinner gentle graduation of the bevel. My favourite carving wood at the moment is spalted Beech which can be almost Oak like in its hardness..... but as yet i have never had edge roll or any type of catastrophic edge failure. To me this is proof that the convex edge is the best knife grind for hardwoods. However the Scandi is very easy to strop sharpen and stone sharpen..... The convex however is a little harder to strop sharpen but a lot harder to stone sharpen... At one end of the scale, is the knife convex, at the other is the axe convex, and all that is in between..... so if you have the tenacity to master the art of "convex sharpening" then you can literally choose the amount of convex to suit a particular tool for a particular job.
This video is about re-sharpening a Haltfors carbon (convexed) that has too much damage for a strop to re-sharpen. Using a waterstone not a mouse mat or belt sander.... This knife cost me £3.95 and is a excellent knife to practice on..... convexing a scandi knife takes longer because of the amount of steel that needs to be removed. But if you can steepen the sides while still retaining a shallow convex then what you lose to the Scandi on steepness (flat) of the sides of the bevel you gain with its thinner gentle graduation of the bevel. My favourite carving wood at the moment is spalted Beech which can be almost Oak like in its hardness..... but as yet i have never had edge roll or any type of catastrophic edge failure. To me this is proof that the convex edge is the best knife grind for hardwoods. However the Scandi is very easy to strop sharpen and stone sharpen..... The convex however is a little harder to strop sharpen but a lot harder to stone sharpen... At one end of the scale, is the knife convex, at the other is the axe convex, and all that is in between..... so if you have the tenacity to master the art of "convex sharpening" then you can literally choose the amount of convex to suit a particular tool for a particular job.
Wednesday, December 26, 2012
Scissors Sharpening Class: Reset Damaged Shear
Scissors Sharpening Class: Reset Damaged Shear Tube. Duration : 9.00 Mins.
jimsharp.blogspot.com - A scissor sharpener called me and asked if I might be able to help him with a problem. He had made a mistake on one of his machines and damaged the blade of one of his customers shears. He said it was bent and didn't feel he could fix it. Seemed like a challenge, so I told him to send it on. When I received it I saw what he meant! Boy was this shear bent in a bad spot!!! Right at the early entry! In fact, it was bend so badly it almost looked like the shear had a full bend of set in it, but in the wrong direction. I did my best to let you see this in the video, so watch if you haven't then read the rest. As I said in the video, I had to do some more work to finish this shear; so I went into the sharpening training center and started to resharpen it. While doing so though, I noticed that there was a snake in the blade (this is a bend in the blade that looks like an S) about a 1/4" back from the tip. The blade also looked fatigued so I really didn't want to do a lot of bending on it because I knew it would break. I did a few test passes over my water stone after I bent as much of the snake out of the blade as I dared, but I still didn't have the shear set to the point where I could hone a consistent rideline without causing an unsightly wave. Fortunately, I had a trick up my sleeve, the Ookami Honing Blocks. These blocks are much more forgiving than water stones and come in handy when you have a shear with inconsistent set problems. I worked the ...
jimsharp.blogspot.com - A scissor sharpener called me and asked if I might be able to help him with a problem. He had made a mistake on one of his machines and damaged the blade of one of his customers shears. He said it was bent and didn't feel he could fix it. Seemed like a challenge, so I told him to send it on. When I received it I saw what he meant! Boy was this shear bent in a bad spot!!! Right at the early entry! In fact, it was bend so badly it almost looked like the shear had a full bend of set in it, but in the wrong direction. I did my best to let you see this in the video, so watch if you haven't then read the rest. As I said in the video, I had to do some more work to finish this shear; so I went into the sharpening training center and started to resharpen it. While doing so though, I noticed that there was a snake in the blade (this is a bend in the blade that looks like an S) about a 1/4" back from the tip. The blade also looked fatigued so I really didn't want to do a lot of bending on it because I knew it would break. I did a few test passes over my water stone after I bent as much of the snake out of the blade as I dared, but I still didn't have the shear set to the point where I could hone a consistent rideline without causing an unsightly wave. Fortunately, I had a trick up my sleeve, the Ookami Honing Blocks. These blocks are much more forgiving than water stones and come in handy when you have a shear with inconsistent set problems. I worked the ...